Household appliances have become so complex that even a professional cannot always quickly detect a malfunction. Thanks to the self-diagnosis system of Gorenje washing machines, which itself will inform you about the nature of the problem, the repair time has been significantly reduced. But few people know what, for example, error f3 means in a Gorenje washing machine, what F7, F3 or 03 means, and whether to be afraid of code 4.
What is self-diagnosis of equipment?
Any modern technology in one form or another is capable of checking itself for problems. Electronics make it easy to monitor breaks, short circuits and deviations in nominal values in significant components. Depending on the size and information capabilities, this may be a simple light indication, there may be a full text description, or there may be a system of codes. Each manufacturer tries to maintain its own unique system, which may vary between different models or model ranges. Same with washing machines.
Gorenje washing machine error codes
Error codes for the Gorenje washing machine with controls “WA-101/121/132/162/162P” and “PG1 - PG5”
I draw your attention to the fact that the error codes for Gorenje washing machines of the “WA and PG” series are somewhat different from each other, so first determine what type of SM you are using. You should know that if any malfunction appears on the display, then you should not take it literally, the fact is that the codes inform more about a broken circuit, and not about failed spare parts. For example, if an error related to draining water appears, then you don’t need to immediately run out and buy a pump, first you need to do what I’ll write about below. That seems to be all, and now you can start deciphering and explaining the codes
Error codes for the washing machine Burning series “PG1 - PG5”
Error code F1 → open or short circuit of the thermistor We will talk about the water temperature sensor; it rarely fails; most of the problems are related to the wiring and contacts. Sometimes it happened that the locking tab on the thermistor was broken off, as a result the contact flew off the temperature sensor body and this error was displayed. The resistance of the thermistor on a Gorenje washing machine is approximately 22 kOhm at room temperature. It can be checked simply using a multimeter, that is, when heated, it will change its resistance
Error code F2 → loading hatch door lock did not work The reason may be trivial, first of all you need to look at how the hatch is closed, try slamming it again. Check the door hook to see how it springs. In general, here you need to check everything related to the locking
Error code F3 → water takes too long to fill. The essence of the error is that the pressure switch, that is, the water level sensor, does not generate a signal that the water has reached the first level. We perform the following steps
- Unscrew the filling hose from the washing machine and check the pressure
- There is a fine mesh in the valve body → this is a water inlet filter. You need to clean this filter, to do this, take pliers and just pull it out, I draw your attention → it does not unscrew, it just pulls out
- Check the water inlet valve, it often gets stuck and cannot open the water supply.
- If there is a lot of water in the washing machine, and this error appears on the display, then it is quite possible that the pressure switch hose has broken or the pressure switch itself has failed
I won’t write about the control module, this spare part is very complicated and I don’t recommend trying to repair it yourself. If you dare to do this, then look first of all at the triac that controls the valve
Error code F4 → the control module does not see the movement of the motor shaft In general, you need to check everything related to the rotation of the drum and the motor shaft on the washing machine
- Remove the belt and rotate the drum by hand; if it does not spin well, this indicates that it is quite possible that a foreign object has gotten under it, or the bearings have failed. If the drum does not spin well, then the engine shaft will also spin, as a result the tachometer will not give the necessary signal to the control unit
- Check the hall sensor on the engine, it is also called a tachogenerator. It happens that he flies off his seat
- Look at the brushes on the motor
- Check the wiring well and check the contacts
In general, we check everything related to the rotation of the motor armature. It is important for you to understand that if there is no shaft rotation on the engine, then this error will be displayed
Error code F5 → the motor control triac has failed. In principle, the same as in the previous paragraph. The only thing is that if this error appears, then be sure to also check the triac that controls the motor. The triac is located on the control module. Something else needs to be noted here, that for some models this may mean the following
- Engine speed can be significantly higher than specified (for SM with control system PG1 - PG3)
- Loss of communication between the electronic controller and the inverter (for SM with PG4 and PG5 control systems)
Error code F6 → the washing machine does not heat the water. There may be several reasons. First of all, of course, you need to check the heating element, that is, the heating element, and then according to the list below
- Contacts on the heating element → very often burn out or even break
- Thermistor, also known as water temperature sensor
- Heating element relay on the control module
- Water level sensor. It happens that it gets stuck in the full tank position, but there is no water in the washing machine. As a result, the brains give a signal to turn on the heating element, it basically turns on, and since there is no heat exchange with the temperature sensor, due to the lack of water, the control module does not see the change in resistance on the thermistor. Such a breakdown happens very rarely, but it happened several times in my practice, so I decided to talk about it
Error code F7 → water does not drain during the allotted time. The Gorenje washing machine gives 2 chances to drain the water, that is, if the water is not drained the first time, then this washing machine starts this mode again and if the water level sensor, again he won’t see that there is no water in the tank → the brain will report this error to the control panel. We carry out the following procedure
- Unscrew the pump filter and rinse it thoroughly
- Take a flashlight in your hands and shine it into the inside of the drain pump housing. You need to pay attention to the impeller of the pump, it is under it that various small objects will get stuck, if any are present there, then you need to pull them out using tweezers
- Without twisting the filter, blow out the drain hose, often something gets into it
- Remove the main pipe that goes from the washing machine tank to the pump body. There is no less dirt in this pipe than in the filter
- Turn on the washing machine in drain mode; the drain pump filter must be unscrewed. You need to watch how the pump impeller rotates
If you do everything I listed above, then I think you can avoid replacing the drain pump
Error code F8 → the drum does not rotate well during the spin cycle. I will not focus much on this error, the fact is that in the event of such a breakdown, you need to do the same actions that I described when I looked at error F4. The only thing I want to add is that usually such a breakdown is associated with the control module or motor windings, in other words, the motor is damaged
Error code F9 → water leaking into the lubrication pan If expressed in scientific language, the AquaStop system has worked. There is no need to be afraid of this big name, because the entire structure consists of two or three elements, which includes a foam float and a microswitch. Look at the photo below, I assure you there is nothing complicated
Photo of the Aqua Stop system
The operating principle of this design is as follows. In the event of a water leak from the pipe, tank, hatch seal, etc., water enters the washing machine tray. This system is located at the bottom of the washing machine; when there is a lot of water in the tray, the foam float rises and thereby puts pressure on the microkick, which turns off the washing mode in the SMA. In general, you need to check everything related to water leaks in the washing machine, that is, all pipes, valve, cuff, pay special attention to leaks from the tank
Error codes for Gorenje washing machines “WA-101/121/132/162/162Р”
Here I won’t rant too much, if something is not clear, then look at the similar error code in the section above, I just don’t see the point in describing the same error several times
Error code F1 → Open or short circuit in the temperature sensor circuit. Check the wiring and contacts. The thermistor itself rarely fails; its resistance at room temperature is approximately in the range of 22 kOhm
Error code F2 → When filling water within the allotted time, the specified level in the tank was not reached. We carry out the following actions
- Checking the water fill valve
- It is necessary to clean the water inlet filter, it is located in the valve body
- We need to see the pressure
- Pay attention to the water level in the tank, if it is high and at the same time this error is displayed, then you need to look at the pressure switch and the pressure switch hose
Error code F4 → The water temperature in the tank does not reach the set value within a certain time. First of all, you need to check the heating element, and then according to the list
- Thermistor, also known as temperature sensor
- Contacts on the heating element and wiring
- Heating element relay on the control unit
Error code F5 → There is no water draining from the tank or in the water draining mode the water level has not reached the “EMPTY TANK” position within the allotted time. We clean the entire system, that is, the following components
- Drain pump filter
- Drain hose
- Main pipe
- If this does not help, you need to change the pump
Error code F3 1 → Problems with the tachogenerator - the control module does not receive a signal from it about the rotation of the motor shaft. You need to check everything related to the rotation of the drum and shaft on the engine. Checking the following
- Try spinning the drum by hand
- If the drum rotates normally, then check the brushes
- Tacho sensor, i.e. hall sensor
- Contacts and wiring
Error code F32 → The drive motor control circuit is faulty. Check everything that I listed in error F32, and at the same time check the triac that controls the motor
Error code F41 → The water temperature in the tank is higher than permissible. Usually the problem is related to the control module. First of all, pay attention to the heating element relay
Error code F43 → The rate of increase in the water temperature in the SM tank is higher than permissible Check the water level in the washing machine, then look at the thermistor
Error code F61 → Low drum rotation speed in spin mode
- Usually happens for the following reasons
- Engine failure, it is necessary to check the tachogenerator and windings
- On the control module, look at the triac and the circuit that controls it
Error code F63 → No communication between the control module and the electronic control unit of the drive motor In short, the fault is entirely related to the control module
Drain pump: checking and replacing the pump in the Gorenje machine
The drain pumps in the Gorenje washing machine actually break down too often and wear out faster than other components.
Machines of this brand are characterized by increased sensitivity to water, which contains many different impurities. The moving elements are located almost side by side, so water stone settling on them interferes with operation. Parts wear out faster and eventually the pump fails and requires replacement.
Replacement or self-repair of the drain pump proceeds as follows:
- Disconnect the device from the power supply.
- Remove the detergent dispenser. Pour out the remaining water from it and put it back in place.
- Place the washing machine in a comfortable position.
- It is easier to access the pump from the bottom, so it is better to place the machine on its side.
- SM brand Gorenye is closed with lids on all sides, and the bottom is no exception. Therefore, you will have to unscrew several screws to gain access to the “insides” of the machine from the bottom.
- Now you need to inspect the pump, checking its serviceability. You will need a tester to measure the resistance. Disconnect the wiring and start measuring. If the tester screen shows about 160 ohms, then the pump is ok. If there are no indicators, then the pump is broken.
- Remove the pump by unscrewing the fasteners.
- Buy a new original part and install it in place of the old pump, reconnecting all the wiring.
- Attach the cover from the bottom, restore the vertical position of the machine and run a single wash in test mode.
For your information! If you decide to do the repairs yourself, be careful when working with the tester so as not to throw away a working pump - then the problem will remain unresolved.
If you are interested in how to clean the pump filter for a Gorenje washing machine, watch the video:
Typical failures and breakdowns of Gorenje machines
Manufacturers of Gorenje washing machines know exactly how to make equipment desirable and attractive to every customer. Today, these SMAs are so advanced that there are even models whose tank operates autonomously and does not depend on the presence of water in the water supply.
Only now we will not talk about technical innovations and advantages of the Gorenje SM, but about what are the most common malfunctions of the Gorenje washing machine, and how to fix them with your own hands.
The first thing you need to pay attention to is the most vulnerable points of the various models of this brand. Using statistical data freely distributed by leading service centers in the Russian Federation, we have compiled a list of typical breakdowns that are typical for almost any Gorenje model:
- The drain pump is the most vulnerable part. It breaks down in a quarter of all cars of this brand. Replacing the pump is the optimal solution to the problem.
- Second place went to the thermoelectric heater. The heating element breaks down in at least a third of washing machines whose warranty period has expired.
- Third on the list is the water drain pipe.
- The fourth place is the engine brushes, which become unusable due to frequent use and require replacement.
We give an additional fifth place to the hatch door handle - its breakdown occurs in every 5th car. The most important thing in case of such a breakdown is to find an original replacement part.
Important! Error codes often help determine a breakdown: F1, F2, F3, F4 and others.